How To Install Carpet Transition Strips' title='How To Install Carpet Transition Strips' />Commercial Carpet Collections by Patcraft. Select a carpet style. Select a resilient style. Select a carpet collection. FIND A CARPET COLLECTIONAction Planks. Apropos. Atmospheric. Beyond The Door. Butterfly Effect. Classically Composed Patterns. Color Choice with pd. QConstrukt. Cosmopolitan. How to Install a Ceramic Tile Floor. Ceramic tile is a common choice among flooring materials, especially for kitchens and bathrooms. Available in many types, colors. Its important to choose the style of carpet to tile transition carefully to make your homes flooring look amazing. Cultural Layers. Deconstructed Black. Deconstructed Metal. Design Catalyst. Dolce. Flex Yield. Foot in the Door IIGet Up Go. LA0iBdPQ/hqdefault.jpg' alt='How To Install Carpet Transition Strips' title='How To Install Carpet Transition Strips' />Gradient Form. Group. Think. Homeroom v. Iconographic. Infinite Wisdom. Inside Stories Chapter 1. Inside Stories Chapter 2. Isle of Skye. Leverage. Life Style. Material Paradox. Mid Century Mad. Mid Century Pop. Mixed Materials. Mixed Materials Converge. Modern Geometry. Never Ending Series. New Groundpd. Q Basicpd. Q Propd. Q1pd. Q2pd. Q4. Razzle Dazzle. Right Angle. See It To Believe It. Sheer Decadence. Simple Elegance. Sound Perception. Speak Your Language. Storia. Sweet Selections. Time Exposures. Visual Energy. Work. Study. Play. Select a resilient collection. FIND A RESILIENT COLLECTIONAd. Mix. Highland Forest Mixed Materials Converge. Set in Concrete. StratifiedTimber Grove. Timber Grove IITypography. How to Install Laminate Flooring. Laminate flooring has become a very popular choice for do it yourselfers due to the fact that its economical, durable, and easy to install. Several varieties of laminate wood flooring are available, offering consumers a vast array of aesthetic choices. Most laminate flooring products share similar characteristics a pressed wood base a durable, adhered laminate finish and a self locking tongue and groove system. These systems typically do not require fasteners or adhesives they just lock into place, basically floating above the subfloor. Join the At Home channel host, Jeff Wilson, for a tutorial on installing a laminate floor. Area Prep. Before laying any of the laminate floor it is important to prep the work area and subfloor. Remove furniture and appliances from the room. Remove shoe molding andor baseboard trim as necessary. You will need to install new or salvaged baseboard or shoe molding to cover the expansion gaps at the perimeter of the space to complete the floor installation. If baseboard is left in place, shoe molding can typically be installed to cover the expansion gap. Remove existing flooring as necessary and check the subfloor. Most laminate flooring can be installed over a wide variety of subfloors and materials, so removal of existing flooring is generally limited to carpet or any loose or unsecured flooring. Its a matter of personal preference. Laminate flooring can typically be installed over concrete any wood, cement, or gypsum based underlayment board old hardwood flooring tile vinyl or in some cases even glued down, low pile carpet. Prepare the subfloor as necessary. Sand any ridges in wood subfloors. Apply cement based self leveling underlayment over floors with excessive variations more than 14 in flatness. Sweep the floor to remove any loose dust and debris. Underlayment and Padding. Once the work area and subfloor have been checked and prepped, the next step is to install any required padding and moisture barriers. Many laminates include an attached padding or underlayment, typically a thin, firm cushion applied to the underside of the board. Laminates with an attached underlayment pad typically require only the installation of a moisture barrier prior to installing the floor. For laminates without an attached underlayment pad, several varieties of underlayment pad are available that provide a cushion, a thermal barrier, some sound absorption, and a built in moisture barrier. Roll out the moisture barrier, or padded underlayment, along the starting wall and cut to length. Place additional sections as necessary with taped butt seams. Planning the Layout. Before installing any pieces of the laminate flooring, it is important to consider the layout of the floor. Generally it is best to run the laminate flooring parallel to the longest wall in the room. However, if you are installing laminate over an existing hardwood floor, it should be installed perpendicular to the existing planks. Use a tape measure to check the room dimensions and compare with the dimensions of the laminate flooring boards. Divide the width of the room by the width of the laminate boards to determine the width of the final row. 2003 Google Sketchup Free Download For Windows 7 here. If the final row will be less than 2, you may want to consider trimming an inch or two off the width of the first row. Divide the length of the room by the length of the laminate boards to determine how long the piece will be at the finishing wall. If this piece is less than 3, trim 36 off the starting piece. Installing the First and Second Row. With the layout determined, it is time to start laying the laminate floor. Open three or four boxes and select boards from each box to minimize repeating patterns in the floor. It is typically best to begin on the left side of the room and work toward the right. Use 14 spacers and set the first full board in the corner with the tongue facing the wall. Check the manufacturers instructions for proper orientation of the boards to facilitate the locking method. Continue to install the first row by aligning the short ends and locking them together. Lift the board at a 4. Push and lower the board to lock the boards together. For the last piece in the row, measure the distance to the wall, subtract 14, and cut the board accordingly. Use a pry bar or tapping block as necessary to lock the joint together. Start the second and subsequent rows with the leftover piece from the last board in the previous row. If the leftover piece is too small, cut a piece to fit, maintaining a minimum 8 stagger between butt ends. Continue using 14 spacers at the beginning and end of each row. Laminate floor boards are typically all the same length, but they must still be installed like hardwood flooring, with staggered butt joints across the floor. For a staggered, random look, pay attention to keep the joints from lining up or creating a repeating pattern across the whole floor. Use a string line, level, and framing square as necessary to keep the rows straight and square to ensure a good foundation for the rest of the floor. Installing the Remaining Rows. Once the first few rows are set, the rest of the flooring is pretty easy to snap together. Continue to install the floor boards one row at a time, using a 14 spacer to begin each row and staggering the end joints 8 minimum. Align the long end of the boards and insert the tongue into the groove at an angle. Position the short end over the groove of the previous board and press flat to the floor to lock the long ends of the boards together. Use a pry bar or tapping block to ensure that the joints are tight. Always use a block with your hammer to distribute the force of the tapping using a hammer alone can damage the flooring. Cutting Laminate Flooring. Laminate flooring can be cut by using any saw and high quality carbide tipped blade that can be used to cut wood. A power miter saw, or chop saw, is a useful saw for square cuts along the length of the board. A jigsaw is handy for cutting out holes and notches to fit around piping and corners. To minimize chipping, cut the board with the finished surface up. Use masking or painters tape along the cut to minimize chipping the finished surface. Cut in a separate area to minimize sawdust in the work area. Doorways and Transitions. Every laminate floor installation will have at least one or two doorways or floor transitions to finish. Some installations may include a stair edge to finish as well. These areas require extra attention and a little patience to achieve quality finish details. Whether the finished floor stops in the doorway or continues through into another space, it is often necessary to trim the doorjambs first. As shoe molding cannot be installed against the doorjamb, the finished floor must fit under the jamb and any casing to hide the expansion gap. Using a scrap piece of flooring as a guide, cut the doorjamb with a jamb saw or flush cut saw. Use a wood chisel as necessary to cleanly remove the cut off piece of doorjamb and casing. Once the flooring can be laid under the doorjambs and casing, the transition strips can be installed. The transition strips hide the edge of the laminate flooring as well as the adjacent flooring and cover the necessary expansion gap. Most transition strips come with a track and can be configured in multiple ways. Fasten any transition strips and tracks to the subfloor, not the laminate floor, maintaining the 14 expansion gap. Measure the opening and cut the track to fit. Screw the track into the subfloor. Measure the opening for the finish transition strip and cut to fit. Miter or cope the ends as necessary to fit snugly against the adjacent trim or frame. Snap the transition strip into the track. To finish a laminate floor edge at the top of a staircase, many types of stair nosing are available. Measure and cut the stair nosing to fit. Using the stair nosing as a guide, determine the final edge of the laminate flooring. Maintain a 14 gap against the stair nosing.